I departed Quito for Havana on 14 Janaury. I had organised bed and breakfast accommodation in advance as I needed an address for the pick-up from the diving operation. Once back from diving I spent a few days exploring Havana. Quite a lot of what is written about travel in Cuba, particularly for women stresses the hassle factor from touts and "jinteros" literally 'jockeys' who ride on the backs of tourists. I had been practicing my 'piss off noddy' expression and a determined look and was unsure quite what to expect, but I found it a wonderful place.

The streets are alive with the sound of music and the sight of huge 1950's American cars. While more expensive than much of South America a good rum based cocktail can be had for $US2.

I was litte bothered by the touts, perhaps because I was usually clear of the popular tourist spots before most tourists had left their breakfast tables. An alternative explanation is that the 'piss off noddy' expression is so deeply engraved on my face that I don't need to conciously adopt it.

After a couple of days in Havana I headed for Trinidad, the Cuban town, not the island. It is a well preserved Spanish colonial town that was beautiful in the morning and evening light. In Trinidad I met some of the locals and got a little closer to how the Cuban economy really works. Quite a lot of what is written about travel in Cuba, particularly for women